Making a Wooden Wheel Barrow
Completed Wheel Barrow. |
This is going to be a long-term project as I intend to use greenwood for the wheel. A good book giving some details of an early wheel barrow design written in 1917: "The Complete Woodworker" edited by Bernard E. Jones on pages:349-352. Interestingly he starts by saying that "the greatest drawback to the ordinary wheel barrow is that more than half the weight of the load and barrow are borne by the arms and shoulders of the user." The design he illustrates allows the greater part of the load over the wheel and "is much easier to handle, and therefore more suitable for female farm-workers and gardeners and amateurs generally, the greater part of the load being carried over the wheel, thus taking much weight off the arms. In fact in some Chinese wheel barrows, the wheel is placed in the centre so that the load is directly over the wheel. The barrow illustrated in Bernard Jones's book, is also shorter than modern versions, and narrow enough to pass through a 2 ft 6 in. doorway with deep sides, being desirable features for stable use. Unfortunately, he does not give much information about the construction of the wheel (the author advises to get the wheel from a wheelwright) but does give some dimensions and that it is constructed as four spokes (or two straight through spokes) one rectangular and the other square rather than round.
I chose to adopt the design illustrated by Bernard Jones with some modifications in construction and materials. As the wheel components dried over the summer, I purchased kiln-dried ash for the chassis elements (excluding the main barrow). The design intent for the wheel barrow was to enable easy disassembly for storage purposes when not in use. The materials used in the construction are listed at the end of this section.
Making the Felloes and Spokes.
The felloes are the pieces that make up the rim of the wheel. The four felloes were crafted from green ash that was felled in January 2024. The trunks of the ash, approximately 16 cm in diameter, were split and then fashioned into rectangular slabs, roughly 9 cm wide, 5 cm thick, and 33 cm long, using a carving axe and a froe before being set aside to dry.
The green wood for the felloes left to dry. |
I had originally planned to use eight spokes to connect the felloes and the hub but after reading the account by Jack Hill ( The Complete Practical Book of Country Crafts, David & Charles, Newton Abbot, UK, p 133.) about traditional wooden wheel barrows in England made with four spokes, I decided to follow that design. Although there are four spokes, they are really two pieces of wood that pass through the centre of the hub to connect to the four felloes. These two pieces are quite different. One is rectangular in the centre (3 inches by 1 inch) passing through the hub and then tapered at both ends to cylindrical spokes that pass through the felloes. The other is one spindle that passes through the hub and the rectangle section of the spoke to fix into the rim.
I made the rectangular-sectioned spoke from a single piece of ash, split from a trunk and roughly shaped with a drawknife and axe. I levelled one wider face with a roughing plane and a smoothing plane. The opposite face was reduced to a thickness of 30 mm using a kerfing plane and a rip-frame saw, then finished with a smoothing plane. The narrower faces were planed to achieve a final size of 60 mm in width, 26 mm in thickness, and 450 mm in length. The final shaping will occur after the ash has dried. Although narrower than the 3 inches (75 mm) specified in Jack Hill's book, I believe this variance is not critical. The spoke ends will be trimmed to 25 mm on the pole lathe once the wood is dry.
Rectangular spoke left to dry. The two ends will be shaped to cylinders after is has dried. |
The other spoke was prepared from a section of cleaved ash by cutting and shaping on the spindle lathe. This was about 30 mm diameter and will be adjusted to 25 mm after it has dried.
The spokes were made from the air dried ash that had previously been roughly shaped. The rectangular cross-sectioned spoke was shaped at each end ready for mounting on the pole lathe. The ends were turned down to 7/8 inch diameter for the first 3 inches and then shaped using a spokeshave being careful to keep the rectangular section in the middle that will go through the hub mortice.
Shaping the ends of the rectangular spoke. |
Spoke when near completion. The ends are 7/8 inch diameter. |
A felloe clamped for sawing. |
Sawing a felloe, hard work with a lot of further planing to get the right shape. |
A felloe prepared and compared with the plywood underlay to check the shape. The underlay will also be used to mark the centres of the felloes and the positions of the axle through the hub. |
The rim of four felloes braced to check the size before marking the spoke positions. |
Drilling a felloe for a spoke tang to fit. |
Construction of the Wheel : Making the Hub and Connecting the Spokes and Felloes.
Ash trunk used to make the hub. |
The hub was made from a trunk of ash using a draw-knife and axe in preparation for mounting on the pole lathe. Traditionally, the hubs were made using elm but this is now hard to come-by. The size was adjusted so that the central part of the hub was 77 mm in diameter and the ends were 58 mm in diameter. Final refinements will be made after the wood has dried.
The hub was left to dry in the workshop and the mass measured at intervals over the summer of 2024. All greenwood parts had their end-grain sealed with wax before storage to reduce the chance of splitting and to minimise distortion.
3 rd May: 1425g and 4 th June: 1290 g indicating a loss of 1350 g, i.e. 9% of original mass. On 8 July it weighed 1230 g and 1234 on 23 July indicating about 13 % loss in mass. It weighed 1236 g on 15 th August indicating it had equilibrated with the atmosphere and was ready for further work. For this purpose, the piece was returned to the lathe and the diameter was reduced to accommodate the fitting of the steel rims as shown below. I attempted to heat them before installation but discovered that it made very little difference to the fitting. This is probably because of the small diameters of the rim and so their expansion on heating was small.
Hub with the steel rims fitted and ready for the axle stubs to be fitted. The piece of wood on the right is the wood that will be shaped for the first through spoke. |
The positions of the spokes through the hub were marked by drilling a hole in the underlaid plywood (see the description of making the wheel felloes below) and setting the hub upright through the hole so that the spoke positions were diametrically opposite and at right angles to each other.
Marking the hub for drilling and morticing for the spokes. |
The hub through-mortice was started by carefully marking the rectangles on both faces of the hub and then drilling 1/2 inch auger hole through the centre, starting from each side and meeting in the middle. Further smaller holes were drilled to roughly define the mortice. The rest of the mortice was chiselled from each side and then the spoke inserted in stages to get a close fit.
The second ash spoke was finished on the pole lathe and adjusted to 7/8 th inch diameter. The mortice for the spoke was drilled using a number 13 (13/16 th inch diameter) auger being careful to meet in the centre of the hub. The spoke diameter was trimmed to get a close fit in the mortice. It is very important to get the spokes in the correct alignments with each other.
Having drilled the hub for the spokes, the felloes were drilled for the tangs. The rectangular spoke was fitted into the hub and the felloes laid in position for the tang positions to be marked and then drilled as shown above. Once the rectangular spoke was fitted, the cylindrical spokes were marked with the felloes in place. Great care is needed in getting the correct angles, positions and level of the drill holes. The wheel was then assembled, tightened and planed to its final shape ready fitting the steel rim.
Finished wheel without the steel rim fitted. |
Forming the mild steel rim using a former and clamps. |
The next step was to complete the tyre by joining the two ends with a butt weld. The circumference measurement is important as the tyre is fitted when it is heated to several hundred degrees on a fire and then hammered onto the wheel. I calculated, using the linear expansion of mild steel, that the expansion at 400 C would be around 8 mm so that the inner circumference of the tyre had to be 8 mm shorter so that when expanded it would closely fit the wheel. I measured the relevant distances using a "traveller", a circular disc about 5 cm in diameter mounted on a handle, and then cut the tyre 8 mm short. I no longer have my MIG welder equipment, so got a local engineering firm to make the butt weld. I checked the size after welding by trying to mount the tyre when cold (about 10 C at the moment) but as expected the tyre was too small.
The next task is I think difficult and one that wheelwrights would have had great experience, that is mounting the tyre on the wheel to get a tight fit and force the wheel components together. Remember that at his stage the wheel is not glued at all and it will depend on the tyre to hold the components rigid. The tyre was bedded in a wood fire set in a large barbeque stand and heated for over one hour. The steel should reach at least 400 C and maybe as high as 1000 C before it was removed for mounting on the wheel. I think it is important to fix the wheel horizontally so that it cannot move to enable the tyre to be hammered into position. Wheelwrights had a special metal jig for two people to do this and metal tongs to hold the rim and also prise it into position.
The tyre embedded in the fire with the wheel clamped in position. |
My first attempt was not successful, partly because I was not holding the tyre well enough, and also because the tyre deviated in places from a circular shape. In my second attempt, I was aided by my daughter, Emily, who was able to hammer and hold the tyre on the opposite side from me hammering it into position. Once it was engaged with the wheel all around it, it was just a matter of hammering into position and so tightening the wheel and pulling the felloes together. It certainly seems like a two person job especially with the high temperatures involved. The rig was then doused with water to cool the wheel. Much to my relief, the tyre did fit tightly.
The wheel after mounting the tyre and during the cooling stage. |
Construction of the chassis.
The plan for the chassis was drawn from the information given in "The Complete Woodworker". The angle of the strines (the two arms of the wheelbarrow) was calculated as 5 degrees from horizontal.
Sketch of chassis of the wheel barrow. Dimensions in mm. |
Although it was tempting to make the chassis before the hub and felloes were dry, I decided to wait as the dimensions of the frame and axle mounting blocks depended on the width of the hub.
The ash mounting blocks were 250 mm long and 50 mm in cross section. A section was chiselled out to make the block flush with the hub and so allow the strines to diverge at an angle of 10 degrees, i.e. 5 degrees on each side. Holes were drilled 65 mm from the front for the stainless steel tubes where the axle will pass ensuring the correct angle. Holes were also drilled for the 10 mm galvanised bolts that will secure the blocks to the end of the strines. Finally, the blocks were shaped as shown.
A leg fixed in position by a bolt to the strine. The top piece was scarfed to the bottom and diverged 16 degrees from vertical |
A standard mounted in a housing joint in the strine and shaped to an angle to match the leg top. |
Rear board placed in side grooves. Support strips will be added later. |
The shape of the edges on the bottom of the first front board. The bottom rests of the front sloate and faces the bottom board, The sides were also planed to fit the angle of the two strines. |
The second front board mounted in their housings (these are 7 mm deep on either side). |
The third front board set in its housing and tied with a 8 mm threaded screw set in a channel |
Side view after the first treatment. The ash frame had already been treated three times with yacht varnish. |
Wheel barrow with the top removed. |
Materials.
Kiln dried ash was purchased as follows:
Strines: 50 x 70 x 1200 mm @2
Sloates: 34 x 67 x1200 mm @1 (these are the two bars on the bed between the strines).
Legs: 50 x 50 x1200 mm @2
Standards: 34 x 45 x 1200 @1 (two standards to support sides at the front sloat).
In addition the following ironware was purchased:
Bolts for hub/wheel: 2@ M16 by 150 mm long, stainless steel.
Bolts for legs and standards:4@ M8 by 110 mm, stainless steel.
Tube for trunnion block (block below strine that carries the axle): 20 mm OD and 16 mm ID, 100 mm long and stainless steel. The M16 bolts fit through comfortably).
Mild steel tubes for hub: 76.2 mm OD, 3.2 mm wall thickness, 50 mm length. These were cut in half to provide rings for each side of the hub.
57.2 mm OD, 1.6 mm wall thickness, 50 mm length (www.metals4u.co.uk).
Black mild steel flat bar for wheel tyre: 40 mm width, 3 mm thickness and 1300 mm length (www.metals4u.co.uk). This mild steel has a black scale formed by oxidation during hot rolling. It bends well when cold.
Book References for design features:
"The Complete Woodworker ", Cassell's Handcraft Library, General Editor: Bernard E. Jones, 5th edition 1926.